[Look]Matthew M. Williams’s first Givenchy Spring / Summer 2023 Men’s Ready to Wear solo show | FASHION

Givenchy’s first solo show of Givenchy Men’s Ready to Wear by Matthew M. Williams was held at the Ecole-Militaire in Paris under the theme of “a contemporary wardrobe seen through the mirror of Savoie-Faire”. The fusion of menswear and the atelier where the craftsmanship of the Maison has been cultivated was shown.

For the Spring / Summer 2023 main collection, Creative Director Williams clarifies the typical garments and accessories that make up an authentic wardrobe, through the craftsmanship and technological potential of Parisian artisans. , Amplifies the appeal of these items. Reflecting his generational approach to the dress code that tells Givenchy’s history, he is called a “community outfit” inspired by men such as artists, musicians and designers around Williams in his private life and in his work at Givenchy. With free and flowing expressions, subcultural elements are incorporated as if they were “givenchy”. In charge of the music, the show was influenced by Jamaican dancehall and reggae artist Alkaline, who is known for her radical looks and wearing contact lenses that make her black eyes look bigger. In his quest for deconstruction through the lens of haute couture, Williams seeks a way to express the “uniform” that symbolizes his native American society through the sophisticated elegance of the Maison.

The black and gray blazer and coat reveal a novel tailoring silhouette that is voluminous yet relaxed. These items are paired with pants set up with a torn knee and exposed logo lining, just like a schoolboy customizing his uniform with DIY. Blouson and cargo shorts in tongue and beige leather are patchworked from undyed offcycles upcycled from the Maison’s leather factory and laminated to create a durable silhouette. Ultra-lightweight leather is also used in the classic mint green and black shell jackets. The leather varsity jacket, reminiscent of a military surplus, is embroidered throughout and has the same motif as the tarot card tattoo on Williams’ legs.

Blouson, tactical vest, and cargo pants with digitally printed waterproof material and Japanese denim jacquard with 4G logo layered with fine laser cut and hand-damaged mossin are reminiscent of camouflage motifs. Let me. The camouflage pattern is also represented in workwear that is hand-sewn with white and printed nylon layered and hand-sanded and washed. When worn, the white camouflage pattern of ripstop nylon overprinted with chalk is even more accentuated. Similarly, it is noteworthy that the original fluorescent color is used for the lining of shell jackets and military hoodies that have been over-dyed (post-dyed) to a subdued color. The front of the gray and black denim pants with reflective prints retains the “pattern” of the back panel that is attached when the print is pressed.

For eyewear, we propose a new work “G-cut” that wraps the lens with a square G-shaped rim and temples. 3D printed sunglasses are a shiny black, matte gray, shiny clear, gradient and genuine natural wood color palette. In accessories, the new G logo is attached to part of the chain of metallic silver and gold, white and black enamel necklaces and bracelets. Pearl necklaces and stud earrings are available in dark wood, shiny white enamel, mother-of-pearl and crystal pave. G-lock is used for large pendants processed with mini earrings and crocodile embossed leather. The chain features small objects such as retractable combs, checker games, dice sets, G-lock and horn-shaped charms.

The shoes are centered around the TK silhouette, which features a curved sole and ball-shaped heel. “TK-MX Runner”, which is made by multiplying mesh and synthetic leather on the upper, is available in white, black, silver & yellow, silver & green, and black & yellow. Givenchy’s all-knit sneaker “TK-360” with a new taste, “TK-360-MID” is taller than the previous model, and a reverse edition of monochrome color and cage pattern will appear. The new rain boots of the same form combine vulcanized rubber with rubber-covered cork sole with armor details. In addition to the reflective gray and white of spray paint, it is offered in gray, black, white, cream and coral, and there is also a type with lace.

The bags are oversized tote bags, backpacks, triangle bags, and “Antigona” crossbody bags, all with the same savoir-faire as Garment. With our unique craftsmanship, we use patchwork with undyed shades and gray leather scraps upcycled and laminated to create bags. The “Pixel Camo” bag uses the same camouflage motif as the clothing, in which the waterproof material is layered with laser-cut and hand-damaged muslin. Ripstop leather bags are chalk, reflective charcoal and rubber molded scuba. Lightweight nylon bags, on the other hand, are available in this season’s color palette of coral, green, blue and yellow pastel colors.

“Men’s wear is, of course, the very reason why I became interested in fashion. In my work at Givenchy, my men’s collection started from that instinctive starting point.

This show reflects men around me, such as myself, close friends, and inspiring artists, and how men dress up on a daily basis-a new generation dresses past through their own progress. A time-and-cultural dialogue to shape the way we embrace and evolve the code and fashion archetypes. It’s an exciting evolution and that’s why I decided on a men’s solo show for Givenchy. “

Givenchy Creative Director / Matthew M. Williams

Editorial department

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