Fashion

The momentum of the new generation is accelerating!Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo 2023 Spring/Summer Highlight Report | Fashion

yohei ohno

This season, “ANREALAGE” and “Yoshiokubo” participated in the “by R” program that Rakuten, the title sponsor, supports Japanese brands. At the brand support program “JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD 2023” launched by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO) this season, “FETICO”, which won the Grand Prix, will hold its first show. In addition to the event, “MASU”, “WATARU TOMINAGA”, and “kudos/soduk” were also held as part of the “Japan Expo” promoted by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. Hold a show. It was a hot fashion week where the hottest brands of the season were crowded together. This time, we will report on the highlights, focusing on the brands that held physical shows.



    Anrealage (ANRELAGE)

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    Anrealage, which will celebrate its 20th anniversary in the 2023 Spring/Summer season, will hold its first show in three years in Tokyo. This time, Rakuten, the main sponsor of Fashion Week, participated in the “by R” project to support the holding of the show. This collection, which is the culmination of 20 years, has the theme of “A & Z”, and has become the largest spectacle show of Tokyo Collection with a total of 83 looks.

    anrelage

    The production is a method that intersects real and virtual, which is exactly like the brand. The runway is screened, light, sound, video, models, and clothes – all come together to complete the look. It seems to symbolize ANREALAGE, which has been fascinated with collections one after another with innovative ideas as if enjoying the situation for the past few years when it was forced to release digitally due to the influence of the corona disaster.

    anrelage

    anrelage

    anrelage

    The show will consist of the Spring/Summer 2021 collection “HOME”, the Fall/Winter 2021 collection “GROUND”, the Spring/Summer 2022 collection “DIMENSION”, the Fall/Winter 2022 collection “PLANET”, and the Spring/Summer 2023 collection “AGE”. Just when you think that a model that emerges vividly when illuminated by light appears, a model appears on top of it, from the side, sometimes upside down, and it synchronizes with the real model. Which is real and which is video? I experienced a strange feeling that I could not understand for a moment.

    anrelage

    anrelage

    At the end of the show, what was projected on the screen was the rewind video of the show so far. The spring/summer 2023 collection that starts from there is mainly patchwork, which is the origin of the brand. A patchwork that connects thousands of parts one by one by hand, returning to the history of creation and the 20th anniversary.

    anrelage

    Although A and Z, which are also in the Anrealage brand name, are opposites, they are actually next to each other. After reaching Z, return to A again. “ANREALAGE”, which never stops challenging, weaves the past and connects it to the future. It was a memorial show that kept me excited, with many hidden hints for the future.


    Yoshiokubo

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    “Yoshiokubo”, who was selected for the “by R” slot, also held a physical show like “ANREALAGE”. The theme of the 2023 spring/summer collection is “HITODAMA”. For this season, the collection was inspired by folk tales that Japanese children still listen to, and from the folk tales that the designer himself heard from his childhood.

    Yoshiokubo

    The runway is pitch black. Dancers KELO and others danced, and the show started with a mysterious atmosphere. Consistently conspicuous are light materials such as organza and see-through that dance in the air. Rather than “wearing”, it is a “wearing” form that emphasizes the boundaries of the body.

    Yoshiokubo

    Yoshiokubo

    Headpieces reminiscent of demons and lion dances, and graphics depicting animals and the moon are motifs that appear in ancient Japanese fables. The layering of materials and colors was inspired by twelve-layered ceremonial ceremonial ceremonial ceremonial ceremonial ceremonial ceremonial kimonos.

    Yoshiokubo

    Yoshiokubo

    The strength increases with each look. By layering a light textile that allows the skin to be seen through the vivid colors, a “faint” sense of transparency is expressed.

    Yoshiokubo


    FETICO

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    “FETICO” held its first runway show. It is one of the most trendy brands in the world right now, with a large number of highly sensitive fans, and has gained enthusiastic support from people in the fashion industry soon after its debut. This time, it won the grand prix in the physical category of the brand support program by JFWO (Japan Fashion Week Promotion Organization), which was launched from the 2023 spring/summer season, and decorated the opening of the entire fashion week.

    fetico

    The 2023 spring/summer collection is in its sixth season, but the core of the brand is a tribute to women’s physical beauty and formative beauty. This season was inspired by Izumi Suzuki, who was active in multiple fields as a writer, actress, and novelist in the 1970s. She continues to influence various creators even now, but her life, which ended at the short age of 36, was radical and turbulent. Mr. Suzuki said that in her later years, she was struggling in her daily life, despite her exciting life. Her hurried life and the danger and delicacy glimpsed from her provocative face, the gap between the contradictory ‘Yin’ and ‘Yang’, were incorporated into her wardrobe.

    fetico

    fetico

    Body conscious silhouettes, see-through, lace, cutouts, and other fetish materials and details are fully open this season. The brand’s first shoes also appeared. Low-rise bottoms with a lower waist position appeared, leather bras reminiscent of bondage, bold fishnet dresses, and transparent tulle were also used for knee-high socks. From the middle stage, a work chic jacket and pants set with a belt at the waist, and modern denim from the ’70s will appear.

    fetico

    fetico

    Just when you thought that she had expressed an innocent girlishness with layers of soft and light materials, in the next look she appeared a black dress that was worn powerfully in an unflattering look, and in the final stage, she had a masculine look that praised the image of an independent woman. Cut the wind with a dashing setup. Somewhere decadent, somewhere pure. A wardrobe that coexists with such duality is lightly proposed.

    fetico

    fetico

    After the show, designer Eimi Funayama commented, “Ever since I decided to become a designer, it’s been a dream of mine to do a show. I’m overwhelmed by the feeling that that dream has come true. This time, more than usual, I focused on showing off the lines of the body. As a concept, I want to make women look beautiful, and I want to fully affirm the existence of women.” It makes you proud to be a woman and gives you confidence to be a woman. “Fetiko” clothes are the greatest gift to us who live hard in the present.


    MASU

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    “MASU” by designer Shinpei Goto was probably one of the shows that got the most enthusiastic applause this season. This time, the show was held by the Agency for Cultural Affairs, the Japan Arts Council, and JFWO as part of the “Japan Cultural Expo” promoted by the Japanese government.

    masu

    The theme of this season, which is titled “ready” in the collection notes, is clear. The King of Pop, Michael Jackson, who stood at the top of his era. A bright red runway was laid out on one side of the venue, and the full audience entered as if to surround it.

    masu

    masu

    From the beginning of the show, many glittering looks can be seen, as if depicting the glory of Hollywood. Pants with shining sequins, white gloves with only one hand, bright red cummerbund and frilled shirt, balaclava with bijou and popcorn tops with unique shapes are iconic. Evoking the charisma of a star shining bright on stage, he deftly mixes loose sweats, track pants with zip-up details, oversized t-shirts and denim jackets to create a single person walking down the street. A glimpse of the appearance as a glimpse.

    masu

    masu

    “The obsession that everything has to be consistent can overwhelm us,” says the designer. There are many variable items, such as a sleeveless jacket, full-length pants with a wide range of motion design, or an anorak that coexists with different elements such as ruffles and studs on tech materials. Towards the end of the song, masked looks can be seen here and there, but it seemed to depict the frustration of a pop icon who wants to live his life as a “person” despite being consumed by the spotline as a star. In the finale, a bright red silver blizzard pours down from above. With a consistent message, the collection closed the curtain with a spectacular degree of perfection.

    masu


    kudos/soduk

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    Tsukasa Kudo’s “Kudos” and “Sudork” jointly held their first physical show. After gaining experience as a design assistant and pattern assistant for “Jackmus”, “Y Project”, and “JW Anderson”, he launched “kudos” in 2017 and the women’s line “soduk” the following year. Raised.

    The email sent just before the show stated, “Dress code: Please dress up in white.” The writing of the record is reflected for a moment. In it, there was a passage that said, “In the old fashion shows, Marie (=wedding dress) appeared at the end of the show.

    kudos/kudossoduk

    The opening of the show, which was greeted with such prior knowledge, was a pure white Marie with two men’s models lined up. For the following second look, Marie, who changed her taste again, was proposed. With her unique cutting and knitting, shirts and knits that create novel forms, draped tailoring, three-dimensional embellishments, exaggerated sleeves, and other classics with a slight twist are extremely brand-like details. “Kudos”, which praises all values, is not judgmental, is light and experimental, and “Sdok”, which adds a little reality to it. The thoughts that intersect within himself are reflected in his creations.

    kudos/kudossoduk

    kudos/kudossoduk

    kudos/kudossoduk

    At the beginning of this season, designer Kudo focused on the “contradiction” that occurred between his own mind and the outside world. Suppressed by discipline, preconceived notions, and the times, it signifies the friction between various things that repeat forward and backward, and his own state of mind. I believe it has a certain charm.”

    kudos/kudossoduk

    kudos/kudossoduk

    The song played at the finale of the show, which was not allowed to be filmed, was “Shed a Little Light” by James Taylor. A literal translation of the song title means to feel a faint light, to get a faint clue. Blessings to all, joy in every moment. The future that “Kudos” and “Sudork” look at is bright and full of color.

    kudos/kudossoduk


    Wataru Tominaga

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    Following “M.A.S.U.” and “Kudos/Sudork,” “WATARU TOMINAGA” also held a physical show as part of the “Japan Expo.” An up-and-coming brand launched in 2019 by designer Wataru Tominaga. The 2022 spring/summer collection challenged Paris Fashion Week for the first time.

    Wataru tominaga

    The technique of combining all kinds of textiles with a unique sense of color is a unique creation. Brilliant colors, patterns and prints were incorporated into everything from clothing, shoes and bags to hair accessories, showing an experimental, witty and innovative sense of balance. The look after look is dazzlingly bursting with color.

    Wataru tominaga

    Wataru tominaga

    The calculated prints and motifs are also characteristic, but the items and styling themselves also have a basic side. Also pay attention to various hair accessories and styling such as partially dyed hair, color extensions, and bead accessories that promote eccentric styling. A powerful collection that fully reveals the identity of a designer who has studied painting, art, and sculpture was impressive.

    Wataru tominaga

    Wataru tominaga


    Daiwa

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    The fishing global brand “DAIWA” has further updated the “BE EARTH-FRIENDLY” -fishing net upcycle project- that started last season. In this project, we are developing an apparel collection that upcycles discarded fishing nets, aiming to reduce marine pollution and environmental impact.

    be earth friendly

    This season’s second project is a collaboration with students from Bunka Gakuen and Tokyo University of the Arts. Based on the theme of “upcycling reborn from the world of the sea”, students from Bunka Gakuen produced fashion items, and students from Tokyo University of the Arts worked on the layout of the venue. Items created by Bunka Gakuen students with their own interpretations were reviewed in advance, and an award ceremony was held on September 1, 2022 (Thursday) to announce the top winning works.

    be earth friendly

    At the award ceremony, model Naomi Trauden, who also participated as one of the judges and serves as the Ministry of the Environment’s Sustainability Ambassador, took the stage. She announced the Grand Prize, the Excellence Award, and the Special Jury Prize. On the occasion of this industry-academia collaboration project, he said, “It is very meaningful to connect a place of learning and society. The most important thing I felt this time was that thoughts can be conveyed.Sustainability is one of the issues that must be tackled in any field, but the part where everyone’s thoughts are connected. If we don’t change the current situation, if we don’t think that we can connect to the future, nothing will actually progress.In that sense, I feel that sustainability and fashion have a very high affinity. , The students created works according to one theme, and all the works conveyed a strong feeling.I feel that fashion is important to have a message, but from the clothes to the creators. I felt that this project, which conveys our thoughts and connects students and society, is a form of a new future.”

    be earth friendly

    Photo from left: Judge’s Special Award / “GYOMOU QUILT” (Hanano Horiuchi, Hinako Maruyama), Excellence Award / “ATLANTIS” (Taiki Takeuchi), Grand Prize / “alignment cooperation” (Aya Takada), Excellence Award / “Umi” Upcycling reborn from the world of the world” (Jong-Hui, Lee Cheong-Woon, Chu Ling-Zhi), Judge’s Special Award / “Seam Sealed Gear” (Lee Chang-Min)

    be earth friendly

    Aya Takada, a second-year apparel technology student at Bunka Fashion College, won the Grand Prize.

    The Grand Prize was awarded to Aya Takada, a 2nd year apparel technician at Bunka Fashion College. When she won the award, she said, “This work was created with the image of a wedding dress in mind. I made it with the hope that sustainability will spread to the extent that it will be possible to create a wedding dress with upcycled materials (it will be the default). ”. “Unlike everyday wear, everyone chooses a wedding dress with a lot of thought. I hope that recycling will spread to the extent that people will no longer feel resistance to being made from recycled materials. I think it’s a difficult thing to do, and I think it’s realistically difficult, but I hope it will be a good opportunity for people to sympathize with the evolution of recycled materials.”

    be earth friendly

    The award-winning works were open to the public at Shibuya Hikarie 8F 8/COURT for several days after the award ceremony. The works selected for the Grand Prize are actually commercialized and sold at “Daiwa” directly managed stores. In addition, the items that won the Excellence Award and Judge’s Special Award will be displayed at the DAIWA Apparel Showroom even after the “Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2023S/S” period.


    Yohei Ohno

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    “YOHEI OHNO”, which held a show for the first time in about five years, chose the Tokyo National Museum of Nature and Science, which exhibits earth history and natural history, as the show venue. This season, he says, “I tried to beautifully shape various ‘hints on modeling’ that are not limited to time or place in my own style.”

    Yohei Ohno

    What really caught my eye was that the body bag was likened to a bustle (a type of dress style that was popular in Europe in the 19th century. A waist pad to make the hipline look beautiful), and from that it evolved into a jacket and a dress. Body foundation style. The sharp silhouette stands out and adds a novel accent to the styling. In the second half of the show, the graphic print tops that have been announced continuously are sublimated into a setup. A playful outfit has arrived.

    Yohei Ohno

    Yohei Ohno

    The show notes state: “Rather than creating a clear idea or concept, what matters to me is how I can project the aesthetics and fetishes I have built up over the years into my creations, and how enthusiastic I can be about it. I felt it was the most honest creation.”

    Yohei Ohno

    Yohei Ohno

    The evolution of tailoring, the contrast with unnatural volumes, and the sharpness of three-dimensional silhouettes, the creations that the brand has created so far are gradually added with twists and sprinkled in various ways to show new expressions. Rather than showing a completely new side, I got the impression that he carefully reviewed and reconstructed his own creations.


    Fashion Prize of Tokyo 2023

    fashion prize of tokyo

    On Saturday, September 3rd, during the Tokyo Collection period, the 5th award-winning designers of the “FASHION PRIZE OF TOKYO”, a prize that supports the promotion and support of designers who are active around the world, were announced. Tomoki Koizumi, the designer behind TOMO KOIZUMI, received the award this time. In addition to events scheduled for next season’s Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo 2023-24 Autumn/Winter, a show in Paris is planned for January (or March) and June (or October) 2023.

    tokyo fashion award

    From top left: Yuji Abe/Yu Kobayashi (Irenisa), Kokki design team, Sayori Tanaka/Akira Kuboshita (Tanaka), Bianca/Yuto Yashige (tender person) From bottom left: Akiko Aoki Emi Yama (Fetico), Yumika Oka (Ansuclear), Su Viviano (Viviano)

    On the same day, the winners of the 8th TOKYO FASHION AWARD, which aims to support Tokyo-based designers, were also announced. Like “Tomo Koizumi”, the event will be held at Tokyo Collection next season, and support will be provided at Paris Fashion Week for both women’s and men’s wear. This year’s winning designers are:

    “IRENISA” Yu Kobayashi / Yuji Abe
    “KHOKI” design team
    “Tanaka” Sayori Tanaka/Akira Kuboshita
    “TENDER PERSON” Bianca/Yuto Yashige
    “AKIKOAOKI” / Akiko Aoki
    “FETICO” / Eimi Funayama
    “INSCRIRE” / Yumika Oka
    “VIVIANO” / Viviano Sue


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